Patatas Bravas are the synopsis of what to expect of a restaurant. At La Mundana, the bravas are two rectangular logs with droplets of spicy aioli, alternating colours of slate and creamy white (€6.5). With their sharp corners, look like a couple of Minecraft caterpillars.
As a table of 4, we can sample quite a bit of the menu. We order 11 dishes. The bread comes with house smoked butter (€3.8). We order the smoked sardines (€9.5), they come on a shiny undulating plate, morsels of fish, topped with slivers of manzanilla olives, shards & discs of bread and confit tomatoes that steal the show.
Then come a troup of soft textured dishes: steamed buns with pork (€4.3), tender leeks with rosettes of leathery cecina (€9.5), oysters (€3.9), crab milhojas (€10.5), a ‘surprise egg’ a runny egg, in mashed potatoes with truffles (€8.5). Dessert also falls into this category, a chocolate mousse with a mound of yuzu at the bottom and a scattering of chocolate grit on top.
A lot of consideration is going into the plating with many elements making up the final product. Micro and unusual leaves feature quite prominently. There are dabbles and daubs
One of us wants to try the venison fillet. It’s a défilé of baby root vegetables interrupted by pink fillet on a sweet jus. Bright green dots set off the brown and ochre ingredients as do the tendrils of baby leaves on top. It’s a very pretty plate of food.
The food eats well but there is no question that it is a restaurant that aims to seduce its customers through visuals first and foremost. The plates are a picture to look at. They make you stop and consider how to begin dismantling it. I guess it depends on what kind of person you are? Do you rip into the wrapping paper or carefully tease away at the cello tape?
Our favourite plate of the evening are the house made boquerones with green olives and a green sauce. 3 perfect things on a plate. We use hunks of crusty bread to sweep up the salty dregs. The terrarium of smoked sardines comes in second.
The name ‘La Mundana’ refers to the world from which the restaurant is influenced. Although our favourite dishes that afternoon are the Spanish influenced ones.