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Sartoria Panatieri Pizza, Eixample

25th February 2021 1 Comment

Sartoria Panatieri Pizza

With a sense of deja vu, I sit down at the far end of Sartoria Panatieri. The large, light-filled garage-like space is unmistakably reminiscent of Parking Pizza. Particularly the larger second one that opened on Passeig de Sant Joan in 2018.

I feel guilty for the shorthand and shake off the insistent affirmation in my head and try looking again.

There is a marble table with a wooden board on top of it. Touching sides are 5 homemade charcuteries. There is a black round lamp off to the far end, the kind you would expect to find in an old library in Milan.
There it is. That’s the other suggestion my mind profers up. The furniture, the chairs, the light fittings smack of an elegant school room in Milan.

The charcuterie lined up solemnly and minimally on a marble table. As if waiting to be depicted in a chiaroscuro Caravaggio style still life. Though he did prefer fruit.

The branding is consistently applied to most places my eyes fall. “From farm to pizza”, I see it everywhere, and at it’s less than subtle insistence, I choose that route, including a stracciatella burrata (8.50€) and an eggplant parmigiana (9.9€) for variety.

If the interior feels Milanesque, then the pizza is Neapolitan. More sauce than cheese, as is typical. This leads my twelve-year-old to start wisecracking when it arrives. “The problem,” she says while waving a tomato sauce laden wedge of pizza precariously over her white t-shirt “, with these fancy pizza places is that they use expensive cheese.” She tries to distribute the sparsely dotted mozzarella cheese more evenly over her slice. “And it’s so expensive that they can only use a little. They would be better off using cheaper cheese so that there would be more of it.”

I try, ineffectively, to explain that this is exactly how this kind of pizza is supposed to be. That she should consider the dough, which is pleasingly elastic, filled with large bubbles and tasty enough that we use the crusts to scoop up the stracciatella. Being a 12-year-old, she is firmly in the Margarita pizza camp. And to her credit, this is probably the wrong pizza to order at Sartoria Panatieri. Because I realize when my number 8 “Spicy Salami” (13.50€) arrives, the magic at Sartoria Panatieri is concentrated in the nubby silhouettes of the home-cured meats that nestle tightly on that marble-topped table.

The pizza dough is superlative, as is the tomato sauce that is spread on liberally. With a pleasing acidic balance, packing lots of umami. To anyone but the most ardent pizza anoraks, these are nuances. What Sartoria Panatieri has broken the mold with, however, are their home-cured meats.

The table next to me orders a selection. And it arrives folded over itself, thin enough that I am sure I could read the menu through the white fat. I must insist that you do not miss this homemade charcuterie; it is a rare thing of beauty.

That leaves the staff. Even if they are not all Italian (though I will hazard a bet that the majority are), I feel they have an unmistakable Italian air. Is it the swagger? The hair? Italian men have good hair; even when they don’t have good head hair, they have good facial hair. All the staff wear spotless white t-shirts with no splatters on them-  not even tiny ones. Which, I think, is a trick only Italian men can manage: deflecting tomato sauce off their white t-shirts with only their minds.

Sartoria Panatieri
C/ de Provença 33o, Eixample
C/ de L’Encarnació , Gràcia
www.sartoriapanatieri.com

More like this:
Parking Pizza C Londres:
Parking Pizza Passeig de Sant Joan

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Filed Under: Restaurants

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Comments

  1. Susanna says

    25th February 2021 at 11:18am

    Thanks for the info! This sure looks like a place to try as soon as we can move again! I have such a big list of spots to sit and eat peacefully
    So funny what your kid said about the cheese! hehe I can say though that I know some adults who would say the exact same words though..
    I can’t wait to see all those tables full of people and life again. I’m enjoying the weird quietness of the city whenever I have the chance to go but I also miss it’s vibe somehow.
    I just wish that when all this passes by the city is able to find a nice balance in the middle of crazy non sense tourism and locals. Cross my fingers on that!

    Reply

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22:22 Cultura Dulce is all about pretty patisserie 22:22 Cultura Dulce is all about pretty patisserie and many layered savoury butter pastries. I think we may have tried a calçot riff when we were there. It’s a large place with corners occupied by big personality plants. 

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The foie sauce pasta @maleducat should be illegal. The foie sauce pasta @maleducat should be illegal. It’s not a plate to share - even with someone you love. 🫣
Of course the tomato tartar with mackerel continues to make me happy.

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David Hockney at the Louis Vuitton Foundation in P David Hockney at the Louis Vuitton Foundation in Paris is an extraordinary exhibition. I had goose bumps 15 minutes in. 

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Another solid lunch menu option st Club Nàutic de Another solid lunch menu option st Club Nàutic de Sitges. 24€ menu with coffee or dessert, two courses and a drink. Reservations necessary- even on a Monday. 2/4 of the restaurant has the sea lapping at its  side. 

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I am going to increasingly direct you outside of t I am going to increasingly direct you outside of the city. To places like @barquet_tarragona - a multi generational fish restaurant with many accolades. Inside it’s a mishmash of nautical references- and an extraordinary selection of things from the sea along with arroces. Even though it’s in Tarragona, I recommend booking in advance. 

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