Chefs in the open kitchen at Hiu in Cambrils
Barcelona feels febrile with expat imports these days. A continuing trend following the US elections I suspect. And did I mention that Spain is currently the fastest-growing economy in the world? Even with Airbnb due to disappear by 2028, residential rents have inflated significantly, as has a cup of coffee, even though there seem to be two coffee shops per block sometimes. Meanwhile, my previous approach to life and eating out, that of serendipitously scoring a table for lunch if I showed up early, is falling flat more often than not.
Which inspired me to try a different tactic, get out of Barcelona. Reus has proved a treasure trove (more on that in a later post.) And for my birthday this year, I decided to drive out to Cambrils with some girlfriends to try Hiu.
Hiu Restaurant is an intriguing proposition. The Catalan chef Sergi Palacin grew up in Cambrils before becoming Gaggan Anand‘s assistant in Bangkok for almost a decade. Hiu means “to be hungry” in Thai and the menu will leave you sated and happy while it elegantly dances around South East Asian cuisine. Hiu has an A La Carte option. A classic menu for 45€ with Catalan dishes like Kokotxas de bacalao, Canelón and Torrija for dessert. And where we landed – Menú Degustacioń for 65€. As the young chef explains – in terms of food volume, it’s the same, but the second one comes with bells and whistles—my words, not his.
Interior at Hiu Restaurant in Cambrils
The locale at Hiu looks like it might have once been a bathroom showroom, the floor and ceiling might date back to that time. It feels like this has been a self-funded endeavour propelled by a confidence that the food will leave diners oblivious to the interior decoration and focused entirely on the plate.
The seabass bottarga made in house at Hiu restaurant.
The confidence is merited. I eat the best dish of 2024 at Hiu Restaurant. It’s delicious obviously but conceptually it is flawless. It is a one-ingredient dish – the ingredient being Sea Bass. The nose-to-tail proposition typically associated with pork is spectacular in Palacin’s hands with sea bass. The fillet is seared so hard that the skin shatters like the caramel top of creme brulee but with toe-curling umami. The fillet sits on a creamy puree that turns out to be the sea bass’s bones. The clincher is the bottarga, again made by Palacin’s team in-house. All bottarga is good bottarga in my estimation but this one has a depth, a funky caramel morishness that has all three of us running our fingers around the plate. It’s exceptional.
Soft shell crab in a Thai chilli curry at Hiu restaurant in Cambrils.
That is the star but there are many honourable mentions: the sweet corn and smoked sardine. The soft-shell crab – wow. Desserts are another home run.
Dessert at Hiu with figs, honey and walnuts in Yemense style.
The fusion of techniques and recipes works beautifully with the Catalan-sourced ingredients. And as expected, once the food starts arriving, the interior fades away to irrelevant. Palacin serves some of the dishes himself explaining the idea with a shy smile. The dining room is full, on a weekday for lunch in Cambrils.
As of this year, Hiu has been included in the recommended restaurant category of the Michelin Guide, I suspect it’s on its way to at least one star next year. All this to say that even in Cambrils – you should call ahead and reserve.
Menu at Hiu Restaurant
Croqueta de pollo satay
Hinojo marino en tempura – Navaja – Limón fermentado
Niguiri Koji con erizo de mar curado en miel.
Bocado de maíz Lyo y sardina ahumada
Brioche de queso, papada charsiu -brie – sobrasada
Seta erengui – pak choi – majada de menta y cacahuete
Almejas Tom-Kha, marinera estilo thai
Lubina 1 ingrediente: con su pilpil y con sus huevas curadas
Chili crab de cangrejo de cascara blanda en tempura
Molleja de ternera tikka masala
Tapioca, coco y mango
Hojaldre de orelleta, higos, nueces y miel: Yemen
HIU Restaurant
instagram.com/hiu.restaurant
Av. Baix Camp 2 Local 12,
Cambrils 43850
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