Maleducat starts off irreverant. It’s in the name, which means “rude” but more specifically poorly educated or bad-mannered. However, there isn’t anything rude about Maleducat. Instead, there is a cheerful server in a loud Hawaiian shirt. One of three childhood friends that set up the place, coincidentally timing it in tandem with the pandemic, not that it managed to take the shine off the place.
Inside there are bottles of wine 5 or 6 per wall, jutting out on little shelves with red plexiglass plates below them stating the provenance of the bottles. Interspersed between these bottles are wall lamps on arms so long, they look like daddy long legs. A long blackboard across from the bar has “Maleducat” written in large script. Pink. Because – irreverent.
I don’t sit inside; these days, I never do. Maleducat has outside seating, an awning and heat lamps. The menu and wine menu come in a variety of materials and colours. There are many seasonal delights, local truffles and artichokes amongst them.
Maleducat continues the style that Gresca Bar started. We have a meaty tomato, salted so that the flesh becomes dry and chewy, mimicking steak tartar. There are petals of charred onion on top and lozenges of Mackeral escabeche—another plate of poached artichokes hidden shards of house-smoked duck Jamon on a puree of Jerusalem artichoke. Artichokes make an appearance for the third time with the pan-fried fish. As seasonal as a menu can get.
Maleducat has its version of fried egg and ham. But theirs is covered in thin shavings of local truffle and translucently thin pork jowl. Off to the side sits a solitary cube of perfect house cured pancetta. This is my favourite dish. As often is the case, simple but the best example of itself.
At a place like this, dessert is a must. Rich, not too sweet with a sheet of caramel capping it. A crema Catalana.
Our lunch for two with a glass of wine each comes in at around 95 euros. Next to us is a table of 6 Catalans with a temperamental toddler. That table mostly drinks beer and orders three dishes to share. That’s ok at Maleducat, too, it seems. All are welcome as long as you are enjoying what they are doing. And you will.
Manso 54, Sant Antoni